Aggressive Dogs in Beginner Class?

My thoughts? Well, here goes, with a grain of salt.

I think dog aggressive canines can do well in a beginner group class setting under the proper instruction. Though I do believe that they should be privately assessed first for the level and type of aggression that they are displaying. Fear aggression needs to be handled somewhat differently than pure aggression, prey aggression etc.

If the levels are high, they should be worked in a private class first, one on one with the instructor, encouraging desensitization, and only then progress to the group class environment. If the levels are low to medium, sure, let 'em in. They can then learn how to behave appropriately around other canines with a positive, but firm approach. Of course, the handlers level of experience, knowledge and comfort definitely comes into play. If the handler can not control the dog in a proper fashion as directed by the instructor, or is not comfortable handling their dog around others, well, back to privates for them.

On the other hand, I do not believe that human aggressive canines should be in a beginner group class setting and here's why.

Too many people, including instructors, do not know how to appropriately deal with a human aggressive canine. There is a huge liability to the instructor/school if the dog happens to break free of it's owner and go after another student, and of course this means there is a huge safety issue for the rest of the students in the class. The other students are probably not be well versed in how to avoid a confrontation with a human aggressive dog. The "flooding" of people in this situation can cause more agitation and frustrate the dog further, causing it to retain it's aggressive view to people. And, of course, situations play out differently if it is fear aggression, or pure aggression.

In human aggressive canines, it is more common to see fear aggression towards people rather then true aggression, and private instruction on desensitization is very necessary. These dogs can be a huge liability and must be managed correctly in order for them to live safely and comfortably around people. I will not delve into details on how to desensitize here, but it is my opinion that these dogs do not benefit from a group class setting in beginner training or being flooded with people who have no idea how to react around this kind of canine.

In all my years around dogs, dog sports and training classes, I've seen only one truly human aggressive dog, actively displaying some fear aggression but becoming more confident in the situation, though the dog looked to be badly trained in some sort of personal protection venue. It's reactivity was quite high, especially around women, which is an oddity in itself because fearful dogs on the whole, normally display stronger reactions (be it fight or flight) to men rather than woman. And the fact that it looked to be well over 90 pounds didn't add any positivity to the situation.

Not by my choice, this story hasn't ended yet, but I'm curious to see the outcome, so we shall see if I come away with all of my limbs intact in the end.

Handle with care...

EDITED Nov. 25, 2009 - Whew, said dog has been removed from class to work one-on-one with the trainer (what I was hoping to see). I'm not afraid of dogs, not even nervous around aggressive ones, but I'm glad to know that my limbs will be kept intact for later use.

Drives...and I'm not talking a Sunday one in the country

I am contemplating drives. Food, play and prey drives, as well as the drive to please.

Schutzhund, ring sport and police dog trainers often speak of drives, and through researching the types of methods used in training dogs for these different venues is where I learned the most about them. Agility trainers too speak of drives, but often in a different sense. Every one's idea of what drives are what differs, and I have seen arguments over personal definitions. No one can really agree, and what it seems to come down to is personal opinion. So, for my sanity, I will use my own personal opinion formed by studying different methods of training and behaviour.

I've had the privilege to assist with some agility classes over the past couple months, which is what got my little brain ticking on the topic of drives.

I have a VERY drivey dog. She is also a Jack Russell Terrier, which might account for the prey/play drives that I see in her (of course she is a chow hound too, but to her, killing a toy is much more satisfying). She is not a hunt club bred JRT (though recorded and participating with the JRTCC), she's more on the shortie side, but I wouldn't have her any other way. And even though she was not bred with the specifics of drives in mind, she carries these drives from her recent hunter ancestors. She is a Jack, after all, not a breed bred for the show ring, but a breed or type bred for work. Any type of work you throw at her, she will gladly do ... if it gets her something in return, be it a toy, the chase, food etc. She is extremely well balanced in her drives. She is not over-the-top at home, but when it comes to training, trialing, and chasing, I have a little demon on my hands. She didn't need to be taught or helped along with her drives, she never needed motiviation, she just had them. She came with them, as an added bonus. Kind of like, "if you order this fillet knife now, we'll throw in an extra fillet knife and a paring knife for the same price!" Or "if you order this little dog now, we'll throw in some play, prey and food drives for the same price!".

Sometimes dogs don't come with these added bonuses and this is what I have been observing in the agility classes. I have a more experienced dog on my hands, with knowledge and understanding of the sport, so I shouldn't compare apples to oranges, as this great group students are green and still learning the in's and out's of agility. I can say, however, that I am still somewhat disappointed?... No, that's not the right word, maybe taken aback better describes how I feel. So I am a little taken a back with the lack of prey/play drives that I am seeing.

Quite a few of the dogs have the drives to please. Sometimes I envy their handlers, but then I realize that I wouldn't be having as much fun with a dog who's main goal it was to make me happy. I like the independent terrierness (yes, I made that up, it's now the word of the day) of my little girl, she's a challenge, and with that challenge, has taught me a great deal. I have some of that "terrierness" myself, so I can appreciate the temperament and attitude.

Almost all of the dogs have med-high to high food drives. Great, that helps immensely, but doesn't get the excitement level going quite as much as a high prey/play drive.

I have yet to see any of the dogs with high prey/play drives. Some have medium versions of these drives, but none have the intensity of a drivey border, kelpie, malinois, GSD or JRT.

So, from this point, I wonder ... can we really teach a dog to have the drive we desire? I think we can teach a dog to enjoy the chase, we can teach a dog to enjoy the game, and we can teach the dog to enjoy the tug, but I don't think we can teach a dog to have the drive. I believe they need to be born with it, in order to really possess it in it's entirety.

I am lucky. I am VERY lucky. But I've also picked a breed/type that most certainly can not fail when it comes to prey/play drive. I'm sure that there are some JRT's out there somewhere, that lack the intensity. Mine does not. However, my JRT is, as stated, nicely balanced. She's great in the house, calm to the point of laziness. She will, the odd time, obsess over the "ball" or the "toy" or the cat in the backyard, or the rabbit who is making it's home (without permission) in our wild flower garden, but these are all manageable. And I personally would prefer a dog that obsesses just a little to one that doesn't care in the least.

Is a dog who is bred for work/sport in a better position to receive it's natural drives than one bred for show or pet? I would have to say yes, though it does depend on the breed/type of dog that you acquire.

Some of these dogs, though lacking certain drives, will do very well in the sport, as they have the intelligence and desire to please that is also pertinent in training. Some of these lower drive dogs will even surpass their high drive counterparts because lower drives are easier to handle, easier to manage and easier to control. They will work for food, and the food will be good enough for them as a reward for a job well done. Food drive for these dogs will be imperative. Food may even entice them to reach a level of excitement close to that of a highly play/prey driven dog. Some drives to please will even show these results, the dogs being so eager for praise and affection that it gets them excited at the prospect.

Those who can hone the highly prey/play driven dogs seem, in my own observations, to have the quickest, most intense runs. Though, this isn't always a goal as sometimes slow and steady does win the race.

And, with high drive dogs, if the dog is not balanced, you run the risk of "craziness", major obsessions, hugely immense exercise needs, dogs who can not settle and so on.

So again, I am extremely lucky. But then, a JRT is like no other dog out there, and perhaps that is what is so special about them.

I'm looking forward to seeing how these students progress and will watch with interest as to how they motivate their companions in the sport.

To Err is Human, To Beg ... is Dog?

Webster's Dictionary - 1992 - Beg v.t. ask earnestly, beseech; take for granted; v.i. ask for or live on alms

I often wonder if it would be just as easy to train humans not to beg as it is to train dogs. Then, today I had my answer - NO. Dogs and humans beg for the same reasons; because they desire something, weather it be dinner, a toy, some treats, bird crap, jewelry, money etc.

I find, however, that dogs pick up cues a lot fast than humans, and I mean A LOT. Humans take a while to clue in.

You can use the "if I ignore you, you'll go away" technique, which often times, when you are persistent, will work on a blubbering dog waiting for a scrap. Eventually they'll huff off, sigh so that you can hear them and know they're pissed, and go sit in a corner somewhere hoping you'll feel sorry for them (I know, I'm Anthromorphizing, but bear with me, I do it a lot). Eventually, with consistency, they'll even forget what begging is.

Or, you can employ the handy dandy "place" training. In general, show them where they are to be for that moment in time, and enlighten them that they have to stay there until released (treats, rewards blah blah) - this I have used with great success on dogs.

Nice and easy you say, simple to follow, should be quick to pick up. Not so with humans. I have desperately tried the "lalala, I can't hear you, I'm covering my eyes and I can't see you either" (or "if I ignor you, you'll go away") technique, to no avail. I've even gone as far as trying to "place" train some, refraining them from entering my workspace, but these techniques only seem to irate, causing further issues with their behaviour.

And so, today, I had yet another human begging session with one who has less sense than a bag of hammers, and more than enough high and mighty attitude to be featured on some day time soap opera. Needless to say, neither technique worked, so I'm beginning to ponder the use of a shock collar...at least it would make me feel better.